To Pai...Straight Up

The road to China

2010-02-18T15:41:00.004+07:00

As per usual with me there is a new adventure cooking and I write this from Chiang Kong, on the Laos border, where my new adventure begins shortly. I have been so inspired by the type of travel that riding a bicycle offers, that I have decided to keep riding into Laos, China and onwards to Europe. As it turns out, Chris and I will be riding together for a few more days, across the Laos border, where I will follow the mountainous road to China and beyond. Wooh!

You may have noticed there has been a short hiatus in blog posts since I reached Pai a couple of weeks ago and this is because I have just come out of a 15 Vipassana retreat in a Thai Buddhist Temple. I am so grateful to have pursued it, even though there were many times when I wanted to take my bicycle and leave. I honestly feel as though the trip to Pai and everything I have done up til this point was working towards me arriving at this place, meeting my teacher and coming out feeling as I do now.

Over this past 15 days, I have gained much clarity and have less doubt/worries about what lies ahead. It has made me more confident about travelling alone and I have three months of that to look forward to! But with my new practice, and greater insight about myself I do believe it will be ok.

Farewell Thailand for now - see you again soon!

As a parting gift (there won't be anymore posts for a while)I wanted to share with you a blog entry which encourages me (and I hope some of you)to keep travelling by bicycle.

Enjoy!

How To Travel The World For Free (Seriously)
Written by Tim Patterson - 04/29/08

You can travel the world for less money than you spend each month to fill up your gas tank.

World travel is cheap and easy. In fact, with a little practice and effort, you can travel the world for free. The idea that travel is expensive and difficult is bullshit peddled by tour companies, hotel chains and corporate media.

The tourism industry wants you to buy cruise packages and stay at all-inclusive resorts. They want you to choose a travel experience the same way you would choose a new jacket at the mall. They want your Credit Card number.The tourism industry doesn’t want me to reveal the simple secrets of free travel, but I’m going to share them with you anyway.

It can be scary to venture into the world with nothing more than optimism and good-will, but personal freedom begins with a leap of faith.

1. Embrace the Simple Joy of Travel
The joy of new experience is the most wonderful thing about travel – and new experiences are free. Travel frees you from the grind of daily routine. You will explore new places, meet new people, try new foods and learn things about the world – and yourself – that you never imagined were possible.

The joy of new experience is the most wonderful thing about travel – and new experiences are free. Walk the streets of a city. Stop and chat with a local. People watch in a public park. Climb to the top of a hill and watch the sun set over the ocean.

The simple joy of being in a new place is just a matter of…wait for it…going someplace new. No tour package required.

2. Keep Your Needs To A Minimum
The modern American economy is built on the false premise that people need to buy new goods and services all the time. Again, I call bullshit.

People need fresh air, healthy food, clean water, exercise, creative stimulation, companionship, self-esteem and a safe place to sleep. All of these things are simple to obtain. Most of them are free.

For fresh air, go outside. For exercise, take a walk. For creative stimulation, go somewhere new. For companionship, make a friend. For self esteem, turn off your TV, breathe deep and open your spirit to the basic goodness of the world.

Things like food and shelter are much cheaper once you get outside the United States. See # 5 below for ways to obtain food and shelter for free.

3. Go Slow
If you live in New York and want to take a 2 week vacation to Africa, it will be very difficult (though not impossible, see number eight) to travel for free. Indeed, as long as you believe that time is money, you will spend money all the time.

Time is not money. Time is free. You have all the time in the world.

Instead of buying a plane ticket, catch a ride out West, or remodel an old sailboat, or just hop on your bike and ride away from town. The slower you travel, the less money you will spend.

4. Leave Your Possessions and Obsessions Behind
When you travel, you don’t need to pay rent. You don’t need a car. You don’t need an oven, a washer-dryer, electricity, Cable TV, a gym membership, a sofa and loveseat or a closet full of clothes.

You don’t need a suit and tie to wear to your job because you don’t need a job. You don’t need to worry about paying the bills, because there are no bills to pay.

You are free.

5. Trust People and you will Receive Free Food and Lodging
Many people are willing to open their homes to travelers. Chip in with a few chores, and they will give you a free meal, too.

CouchSurfing and WWOOF are two phenomenal online networks that help travelers connect with local hosts. CouchSurfing members are willing to give travelers a place to sleep for a night or two. WWOOF connects travelers with organic farmers who want to trade room and board for an extra hand.

Many members of both CouchSurfing and WWOOF are seeking an alternative to high-impact consumer culture.

6. Learn a Useful Craft or Skill
If you have a skill, such as cooking, animal husbandry, massage, musical ability or basic carpentry, you can barter for free food and accommodation as you travel.

The slower you travel, the easier it will be to work out a mutually beneficial arrangement with a local community or host.Universally appreciated skills like cooking are best, though niche skills that are in high demand, like website design, are also useful. Native English speakers can often travel the world for free by teaching language classes in each destination they visit.

The slower you travel, the easier it will be to work out a mutually beneficial arrangement with a local community or host.

7. Get Out of the City
Although it’s possible to travel for free in a big city, it’s damn difficult. Cities are built on money, and necessities like fresh air, clean water and a safe place to sleep are difficult to come by in cities.

Go to the country, where people are more relaxed, food is plentiful and there’s ample room for one traveler to lay out her sleeping bag under the stars.

8. Find A Job You Love That Entails Travel
If you need an income in order to pay off loans or support a child, find a job that calls for extensive travel. There are millions of jobs available in the global economy that demand travel.

Of course, some jobs are easier to love than others, and much work that involves travel also involves the destruction of local ecosystems and traditional ways of life. Avoid unethical work if at all possible – it is bad for your health and worse for your soul.

For job ideas, check out the Travel and Adventure jobs section here at the Traveler’s Notebook.

9. Embrace Serendipity
Traveling the world for free requires a blend of advance planning and the willingness to seize opportunities and go with the flow.

Does your new CouchSurfing friend want company for a drive across the country? Grab your pack and ride along! Does an organic farm in Thailand need a farm sitter for the rainy season? Get in touch with Christian Shearer at Panya!

As Kurt Vonnegut wrote, “Peculiar travel suggestions are dancing lessons from God.”

Go dancing.
Read a response to this article at Brave New Traveler – The Tao of Vagabond Travel

Oxfam Project Visit - Organic farming practices in Chiang Mai

2010-02-18T14:57:00.003+07:00

Whilst resting in Chiang Mai, Chris and I were invited to spend a day with another Oxfam GB supported project in Northern Thailand. This project is run by a Thai NGO called the Institute of Sustainable Agriculture Community (ISAC), which exists to support sustainable agriculture communities in Chiang Mai and help develop a competitive consumer market for their continued success. A Sustainable Agriculture Community is one which is built on close and collaborative relationships between all community members including organic producers and consumers. The main objectives are to provide safe access to food, self-sufficient economy, healthy environment and general social well-being.

We were picked up early by ISAC’s director, Khun Chomchuan, a charismatic Thai man who has been working to help promote organic farming in Thailand’s north since 1993. The first stop was a morning market in the city, where producers from the region come on a weekly basis to sell their organic produce. Working with the Thai Government to promote organic agriculture and self-sufficiency, ISAC has established a thriving market for organic produce in Chiang Mai. There are currently over 15 different locations where farmers can sell their produce directly to the consumer at fresh food markets held in schools, universities, hospitals and direct from ISAC’s organic warehouse.

Over the past five years, ISAC has trained over 2500 farmers, including members of Chiang Mai Organic Cooperative. Although some local farmers have been practicing organic agriculture for the past 18 years, ISAC trains others to convert from traditional farming practices to sustainable agriculture and also offers capacity building in fair-trade business and marketing.

We had the chance to chat with some consumers, many of whom have been buying from the market since its inception. These people told us that they prefer to shop at the market for their fresh produce as they can be guaranteed that the food they buy is organic, local and in season. They still have to source some of their dry goods at the larger organic chain in Chiang Mai which unfortunately is very expensive for Thai people, as most items are imported from overseas.

Later, we visited ISAC’s model sustainable agriculture community in Chiang Mai. Their small farm on 8 rai (approx 12800 Sq.m) of land is only 2 years old and produces around 800kg of organic rice which is eaten by the local community each year. Ironically, their land is surrounded by other farms which still use chemicals. We ware impressed to learn that there are a variety of natural ways (such as surrounding the farm with banana trees) to convert soil which has previously been tainted by chemicals to organic agriculture.

It wouldn’t have been a visit to an Oxfam project in Thailand without being served am extremely delicious (organic) lunch. When we visited the ISAC office, there was a training in session, so we sat on the ground with approximately 40 farmers and enjoyed a fantastic meal of vegetables, fish and sticky rice all sourced from ISAC’s farm. Aroy mahk mahk!

Goodbye Cycle Buddies

2010-01-24T09:00:00.000+07:00

You can pick another touring cyclist from a mile off! They are usually the ones who have a rack (for luggage) on the back wheel and big smile on their face when they see you. This morning, while I was having breakfast at my favourite spot in Pai – “Good Life” – I noticed a young Thai boy casually riding along, eyeing off our bicycles. I asked him where he was going and he told me he was going back to Chiang Mai.

Kit, is an 18 year old university student who was on his first ever long distance bike ride. He bought his bike in May last year, through savings he earned at an upmarket Sushi restaurant in Chiang Mai. A few weeks ago he finished his studies and made a split decision to ride his bike for one week around northern Thailand. He bought a cheap tent, some warm clothes and set off, not telling anyone where he was going or what he was doing. His parents assumed he was still studying and his friends thought he was back in his home town for the semester break. That’s the way he liked it!

He told me that on his first day he rode over 100kms from Mae Cham to Mae Hong Song (one of the steepest roads in Thailand), stopping along the way to see caves, canyons and other sites. Often when Chris and I were riding through Thailand, we would skip certain attractions because they were off the beaten path and most likely, up a series of steep hills. But not this kid – he wanted to see it all!

Although quite shy, he obviously wanted to chat to other cyclists about his experience. We invited him to sit down with us and he told us about his dreams to ride into Laos and around Thailand, while I translated. The spirit of adventure radiated from his eyes, and he mentioned that one day he will have enough money to go around the world, like Chris.

Throughout our journey to Pai Straight Up we have met and ridden with some other cyclists who share the same enthusiasm as Kit:

You have already met Gemma (Gems), the girl who rolled out of a palm-oil plantation and into our hearts. Gems has been my gal pal and a great support to me throughout this journey. Having Gemma on the trip also allowed Chris and I some space from one another, which was sometimes needed. Until she met us, Gemma was riding solo through Thailand and Malaysia and at times she continued to go off on her own, which I thought would be impossible for me to do. But since meeting her I have realised that the only fear I had was fear of the unknown and I have learned to value (and even crave) time spent on my own.

On the final leg of our journey from Chiang Mai to Pai, we were joined by two lovely guys . Sawang is a Thai touring cyclist/adventurer who rode from Chiang Mai through Laos, China, Tibet, Nepal to India for 10 months during 2007. He has also done a lot of riding in South East Asia including Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia, Indonesia, The Philippines and Laos. Sawang has a great sense of humour (Poot Len) and I enjoyed chatting to him in Thai about his experiences. http://www.bicycleworld.multiply.com/

Gunther, a German backpacker who we met at a Christmas party, was planning to see Thailand after finishing an English language training course in Bangkok. Wanting a different kind of travel experience, he hired a bike in Chiang Mai, attached his tent and backpack and joined us on the final leg of our journey to Pai. I was really inspired by his ability to ‘just do it’’ and also amazed that he could get up those mountains after so many cigarettes! He was constantly attached to his English language dictionary and made me realise that there is a lot that I don’t know about my own language. After reaching Pai, Gunther decided to continue on his own around the loop to Mae Hong Song and back to Chiang Mai.

In Chiang Mai we met a Swiss couple who have been cycling for the past 2 years. I felt a strong connection with the lady Mira, who had a very down-to-earth approach to cycling. They don’t make plans, just take it day-by-day and simply live in the wonder of it all. She also gave me some really good tips for China and helped me to rest assured that riding there will be a wonderful experience.

But this morning I said goodbye to a special cycling buddy. Chris has decided to do a 20 day meditation retreat in Pai, which means we are cutting our time together short by about a month.

Chris and I have been friends for almost 10 years, but over the past two months of riding we have come to understand each other on a different level. I am proud of Chris and what he is doing through the Cyclestrongman Expedition. His ride around the world by bicycle is indeed a journey of self-discovery and I am grateful to have had a first-hand glimpse of this journey myself. Thanks to Chris, I now know what I am capable of and am excited to embark on some of my own adventures. I am also grateful to Nick Harrison, my ex-boyfriend and Chris’s friend, who introduced us all those years ago, because without that meeting I would not be sitting here today.

There is a book/movie called Into the Wild about a guy who takes off on his own into the wilderness to find the meaning of life. When I first saw this movie, I thought of my friend Chris who was planning to ride around the world alone and felt scared. On reflection, I can see that even during this trip I had a lot of fears about riding on my own (even if the others were not far ahead), camping on my own – generally being alone. But now I am starting to realize the value of time spent alone and also of time spent with others. This story ends with a quote from the pages of the man’s journal which reads: ‘Happiness is only real when shared’.

Four Seasons in One Day

2010-01-22T13:45:00.004+07:00

My day started off like any other – wake up (5:30am), stretching (till 6am), packing/preparing my bike and setting off (6:30am). But today I had mixed feelings.

We had spent the past two nights camping at Pong Duen National Park, a beautiful spot at the end of a very steep track, approx 6.5 km off the main road leading to Pai. The main attraction here was a very unique volcanic geyser which pumps steaming hot water into some beautiful natural hot spring pools. We snuck into our campsite in the dead of the night, in order to escape paying the 200THB entrance fee for foreigners (it’s only 40 THB for Thais) and enjoyed the pools and sauna pretty much to ourselves each evening.

It may have been the fact that I hadn’t had breakfast (anyone who knows me well understands what I am like if I don’t eat in the morning), or it was perhaps the realization that I still had three big mountains to climb before a final 25km of downhill which would lead us into Pai town. Or maybe it was the fact that I was about to embark on the final leg of my journey to Pai Straight Up – a two month, 2500km bicycle ride through 21 provinces in Thailand – one that I am not sure that I ever believed I could do.

I put in my headphones and waited for the shuffle setting to predict which song would stay running in my head for the remainder of the day. It was Crowded House, Four Seasons in One Day, a song that I used to listen to when feeling homesick in Bangkok.

“Four seasons in one day, lying in the depths of your imagination...”

As I left the campsite my bike decided that it was only going to allow me to use 6 out of the 24 gears that I am used to. The boys were already in front of me so there was no time to argue and I set off feeling lucky that I still had the lowest gears to play with, which is fine when climbing mountains. Within minutes I was pushing my bike up a very steep part of the road, dreading what was to come later in the day. But I kept going, alternating between riding and pushing, and eventually reached the main road where I found the others.

“...finding out that everywhere there is comfort there is pain, like four seasons in one day...”

To say I was overjoyed when we stopped for breakfast would be an understatement. Only one mountain down and two more to go, but with food in my belly I couldn’t be happier. Again we started to climb but this time the gods were more generous. The road to Pai is infamous for the number of hairpin turns (762 from Chiang Mai) and we must have encountered most of them in the next two hours of riding. Eventually we reached the summit and enjoyed a short downhill before climbing again. I put my head down, clipped in and kept humming the tune.

“worlds above and worlds below...like four seasons in one day”

On the way up I realized that I was in front of the others, mainly because they were stopping regularly to take photos and video footage of us all going up the mountain. There was a sign saying that it was 1km to the next police box so I knew that there would be a food place nearby. I felt a sense of excitement at the prospect of being the first to arrive at our lunch stop (this has never happened in two months of riding!). With a burst of energy I cruised along the ridge of the mountain and round the next bend, where I found another hill. As I made my ascent I heard the familiar “click click click” of Chris’s bike as he sidled up beside me, followed closely by the others. “Noooooooo” I screamed (along with another expletive), not knowing exactly why this outburst had occurred. It was not the fact that I was going to be last, or that they were stronger than me – but something inside of me felt disappointed.

“...like all the things you can’t explain...four seasons in one day”.

I have tried really hard to keep up with Chris throughout this trip and at times I felt like my slower pace bothered him. He has never said so, nor has he ever given me reason to think that he didn’t think I was up to this trip. It was all in my own head, and I realize now that the only person who ever doubted my ability was me.

When I pulled up, I watched as the magic words come out of the policeman’s mouth in slow motion “it’s all downhill from here”. Later, as I made the 25km descent, I had a revelation. The tune ringing in my head was my reality. I am a mixture of emotions, up, down, up, down, like four seasons in one day. I cried and when I reached the bottom I stopped beside Chris and apologised. We shared a few moments to reflect on the adventure, and how much I had improved over the past two months. We decided to ride the last 3kms into town together.

“Only one step away...like four seasons in one day.

It started with a smile...

2010-01-15T07:47:00.003+07:00

Thailand is known as the ‘Land of Smiles’. When I first came here on holiday in 2005, I wanted to know why this was so. I tested it out - smiling at street sellers, hotel attendants, people jogging in the park, people on the skytrain, people in the shops - and every time I smiled at someone I was guaranteed to get a beautiful energetic response. I was delighted to walk around and share fleeting moments with people from all walks of life, through the simple act of smiling.

I once tried this exercise in Sydney. I walked from Darling Harbour to Hyde Park (approximately 6 blocks), trying to smile at as many people as possible. What happened was completely the opposite. Some people saw my smile and assumed that I was looking at someone else - turning around to see if there was someone walking behind them who I recognised. Others simply kept walking (pretending not to see) and some looked at me like I was wearing a sign that said 'freak'. As disheartening as it was, I found it funny and remember laughing out loud at the absurdity of it all.

But what's in a Thai smile? And why do Thai people smile so much?

There are many different characteristics which define the smile. Here are a select few that I have encountered when riding a bicycle through Thailand's countryside:

1. Sometimes people smile at you instead of talking. Initially there is no common language, so a smile says 'you are welcome'. Once they know that I speak Thai, the smile becomes wider, more natural and shows a sense of relief.

2. Thai people smile when they feel shy. They may want to talk to you, but when you approach them or start to speak to them, they simply smile.

3. Foreigners are always a subject of interest to Thai people, especially when they are doing strange things like riding a bicycle up a steep mountain. Another smile I regularly encounter is one of hilarity, laughing through their smile at the 'silly farang’ (foreigner).

4. Sometimes people look at you with interest or intrigue. They may wonder what you are doing here, where you have come from, why and how? The look is initially one of query but as soon as you break that gaze with a smile, you get an even bigger one back. These smiles stay with you for hours and are often enough to get me up the next mountain!

Thailand really is the 'Land of Smiles' - a place where I have learned to smile more often, more genuinely, for smiling's sake.

The Wat Tour of Thailand

2010-01-04T14:27:00.007+07:00

After a full day’s ride we were pleased to roll over the 100km mark and straight into a wat in Ban Tham Nam Bang. As per usual, I asked to see the head monk and was told that I could find him in the cave on the top of the hill. Despite my wobbly legs, I managed to climb the stairs into the main shrine but the only figure that greeted me was Buddha himself.

The cave was vast with several storage and sleeping rooms built into the walls and as I lingered in this space it felt as though I was an intruder in someone’s home. Eventually I found the monk, drinking a cup of tea and reading a book, and when he looked up I could see that he was thinking "Farang?!?". He said we were welcome to sleep in the cave, or the sala if we were scared - obviously he could read me aswell, because I chose the sala.

Each wat we have stayed in has offered a unique and rewarding experience. So far, monks in Thailand have been extremely hospitable and let us stay in their wats for free - whether it be in a cave, the forest, overlooking a nice beach or in the middle of a big city. We are grateful when offered a room (once with air-conditioning and internet access!), but are just as happy with a dry space under a temple building or sala.

Every day Thai monks wander the streets barefoot, collecting food which is given by local people wishing to gain merit. Occasionally they have offered us food which has been donated to them during this morning alms collection. At first, I was very humbled but at the same time worried that they didn’t have enough food. On subsequent occasions I realized that they have to encourage people from the village to come and eat with them so the excess food does not go to waste.

Some monks have been eager to chat with us about the Dhamma or Buddhist practices. One particular monk made quite the impression when he used loud noises and hand movements to explain his theory about people sending rockets through underground tunnels to cause natural disasters such as the tsunami. Chris and I did not want to offend, but had trouble containing our laughter.

Another memorable experience was when Gemma and I were taken to Wat Suvarnapoom (Lopburi province) to meet Ajarn Songsom, a monk who teaches “Freestyle” Dhamma. He told us to simply listen and the message and practice would be ‘up to you’. He was right, especially because his teachings were in Thai and I think my translations were way off!

Overall, the wat has become a place of refuge that we seek out at the end of a long day and helps to make cycling through Thailand a very cheap and satisfying experience, not to mention entertaining.

Ups, downs and rounds and rounds

2010-01-02T08:00:00.006+07:00

We are currently riding through Petchabun province, which known as the "Swiss Alps of Thailand". I chose to go this way as it was somewhere I have never been before, but tried to ignore the fact that there would be hills to climb.

It may sound deep, but riding a bicycle is a lot like life - well a lot like my life so far. You have to take the ups with the downs, and in fact, with every uphill you encounter - you learn that it wasn't the incline, the speed of the wind behind you or the breakfast you ate which got you over the top - it was all you.

I used to hate riding up hills. Looking back on Day 1, I can't believe that I pushed my bicycle for the most part of one sticky, hot day in Penang, cursing most of the way up and threatening to turn back if it got any worse. There was one hill in the south of Thailand where I literally waited at the bottom for a tuk tuk to come along and pull me up - but it never arrived.

Some days are definitely harder than others. Sometimes it can be a simple thing like riding past a power station which is spewing black smoke into the atmosphere which sucks my energy away again. Riding on the freeway aslo sucks but I have learnt that instead of paying attention to the cars, trucks and motorcycles on my right, to focus on the green and open on my left, because the cars have a right to be there, and so do I.

Yesterday I had a breakthrough - a day where I enjoyed going up as much as I did going down. And when the hills kept coming I just kept peddling, enjoying the downs and using them to help me get back up. I even found myself laughing in the face of each and every new hill.

My riding has definitely gone from strength to strength in the last few legs, but it is my mind which is coping better than ever before. Every day I wake, I stretch, I ride, I eat, I ride, I stretch, I sleep and then I wake up, happy to do it all over again the next day.

Riding with the pack

2009-12-31T19:07:00.006+07:00

As we rounded Chatujak Market, the sun began to rise and it felt like we were leaving the busy city streets behind us until I heard "Pshhhhhht". Suddenly it felt like I was pulling 30 coloured taxis along with my bike and realised it was time to change my first flat tyre.

Sucking in Bangkok traffic fumes at 6:30am was definitely not my ideal way to spend Boxing Day morning, but it was one I had to live with. While I got down to business, Chris and Gemma cycled ahead to meet the MTB Thai bicycle club team who were waiting to join us from Bangkok - Ayuthaya. I was proud of my turn-around time, and as I was putting the good-as-new tube back in a few of the Thai riders came to egg me on and show me to the place where our ride was to begin.

What was 15 riders to begin with, turned out to be around 35 total as we kept picking up others along the road to Ayuthaya. Cycling in a big group made navigating the traffic so much easier and there were plenty of different bikes/riders amongst the group, meaning the pace was well spread out. Chris (even with his 70kg of weight) managed to keep up with the speed demons at the front for most of the way, whereas I was happy to ride 'sabai sabai' towards the back of the pack, chatting in Thai as we meandered along.

Once out of the city we stopped at some markets which required you to bend down to pick up the items you wish to purchase and another where we watched a beautiful re-enactment of Thai life during the Ayuthaya period, acted out in the water.

At the end of the day we dropped in to see Ajarn (Teacher) Preechah, a Thai man who cycled to America from Bangkok 50 years ago to study. He is now in his 70's but still as fit and full of life as in his photos. He offered us a place to stay and some food saying ' I know what you bicyclists like - food, shower and a place to sleep' - exactly!

We said goodbye to the rest of the pack (who had to ride back to Bangkok) and spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the Ayuthaya ruins. Thanks very much to everyone who joined this ride and especially to Khun Thanin, who was instrumental in pulling the gorup together and organising such an interesting program. We are extrememely grateful!

Bangkok's Last Hurrah

2009-12-26T08:00:00.003+07:00

We made it to Bangkok! The journey took 21 cycling days and covered approximately 1300 kms. We followed this route.

On the way here I was somewhat dreading getting back to the big city. This city and I have had an romantic love affair, but since moving here over two years ago there are three things that I don't love about Bangkok: traffic, noise and pollution.

These three things do not make it very easy to cycle in the Big Mango. There are a few token cycle paths scattered around, but most have been painted on the walkways in major shopping areas, where the foot traffic is just too condensed and you run the risk of running down strolling happy couples.

Lucky for me, there is a wonderful oasis in the middle of this concrete jungle - Phaya Thai Home. This is the apartment where I used to live (before setting out on this bike ride). Rose (my flatmate) has let us put our feet up there over past few days and we have really enjoyed reading our books, decorating the Xmas cactus, sitting on the balcony and watching the squirrels run around the garden. During this time I have caught up with friends, had a couple of massages and celebrated Xmas day by conquering one of my fears - riding in Bangkok traffic.

In Thai culture, it is common to do something good for someone else on significant days of the year - like birthdays, and public holidays. Christmas has never been very significant for me - but this year I woke up and decided that I wanted to do something that I have been meaning to do for a long time - donate blood.

So I set out on my bicycle and rode the couple of kilometers to the Thai Red Cross, through Siam, the busiest part of town. I made it with my heart still beating, which is probably why it only took only five mins to fill the bag with deep red sugary cyclist blood. I was glad about that because the staff seated me right next to a glass window which faced the waiting room and I was a source of amusement for everyone else who was patiently waiting their turn.

Bangkok for Christmas was quiet but nice. I had street-side noodle soup for lunch this year with my close friend Nui, followed by some green mango whilst we sat chatting in Lumpini Park. Gem, Chris and I had dinner at Regan and Joke's place, where a mouthwatering feast combining several nationalities was enjoyed by all.

Today we will say goodbye to Bangkok and ride to Ayuthaya with some fellow Thai cyclists. For me, this parting feels more permanent. Bangkok has been good to me, but I am quite sure that 2010 has some changes in the midst. I am looking forward to some greener pastures - literally.

A monkey stole my bicycle!

2009-12-22T23:32:00.004+07:00

When we arrived in Petchaburi for second breakfast, we had already done 36kms and had another 54kms ahead to Ratchaburi. We decided to ride to a cave temple called Wat Tham Khao Luang which sits atop a hill 4km south of the city. I particularly wanted to go there as I had heard there is a beautiful sun beam which shines through the opening at most times of day lighting up the Buddha statues contained within.

As we pushed our bikes up the steep road to the temple, we noticed there were lots of monkeys being fed by foreign tourists, so we rode into the temple complex and parked our bikes away from the crowds. Gemma, the CSX veterinarian, offered to wait with the bikes while Chris and I climbed the staircase to the cave.

As I was walking away, I looked back and saw six monkeys converging on Gemma and the bikes. Within seconds monkeys were sitting on our bikes, drinking from our drink bottles, trying to eat my flip flops and trying to rip off the bags from Chris’s bikes. One even stole Gem’s mobile phone.

I don’t like monkeys at the best of times, but went back to try and help out. When Gemma (who loves all animals) picked up a big stick I knew it was bad. We tried to fend them off, but it only antagonized them further and at one point we were being chased away by the ‘big mamma’ monkey. They thought it was funny to push over our bikes one by one, and when they started eyeing off our tyres – enough was enough.

I yelled out ‘Help!’ and a Thai man came running over saying ‘You can’t park your bikes here – it’s the monkey condo’. He screamed at the monkeys, who immediately ran off, dropping our bottles and the mobile phone. This gave us enough time to move the bikes to a safer place, by which time Chris was coming out of the temple saying ‘I thought you were going to fend them off our bikes!”.

The monk, the chocolate muffin, and cat who loved me

2009-12-18T22:40:00.000+07:00

This post roughly sums up one of the most interesting and hilarious nights I have had on this trip.

As we arrived in Cha-am late in the afternoon, we skipped the beach and headed straight to the local wat. On arrival, we were greeted by an energetic monk called Thanayuth, who showed us to a small room where we could sleep and told us ‘I take care of you’. We were grateful to have a quiet place to rest and I was especially excited to get some cuddles from the little kitten in the room, which followed me everywhere.

Thanayuth was impressed that I could speak Thai, and when I told him that we had ridden here from Malaysia and Chris was riding around the world, he gathered all his monk friends and explained what the ‘farang on bikes’ were doing. He told us that he would love to come with us, but he can’t because he doesn’t have a bicycle. Monks in Thailand do not have much money and are only allowed to use things that are given freely to them, thus, he would only be able to go if someone gave him a bicycle.

Later, when we were laying out our blow-up mattresses, he knocked on the door and asked if he could sit with us. This was fine, but unexpected, as at most wats the monks usually steer clear of females. He started asking all sorts of questions about Chris’s bike ride, which I happily translated. Chris had started showing him some photos on his laptop when all of a sudden the monk jumped up and said ‘I must take care of you’.

A few minutes later Thanayuth was back with some snacks, which included some strong iced coffee, fresh cakes and a chocolate muffin, with jam on the inside! We were finding it hard to contain our excitement when he rushed out again and came back with a huge bunch of grapes (they are very expensive in Thailand!).

Chris started to talk to him about Buddhism but Thanayuth had other things in mind. He explained some theories (complete with actions and sound effects) that he had about global warming and natural disasters. At times we couldn’t help giggling as they were pretty far out ideas (or perhaps my translation was off), but we really enjoyed talking to him and found him quite fascinating.

After this extremely animated conversation, we were very tired so went quickly to sleep and I found myself with a cat on my head for most of the night.

Oxfam Project Visit - Prachuap Khiri Khan

2009-12-16T13:00:00.008+07:00

Part of the reason I joined the Cycle Strongman Expedition is to help my friend Chris raise $100,000 AUD for Oxfam Australia. Oxfam need your support, so please donate, and for those of you who have already supported us so far, thank you for your donation!

If you have ever wondered if your donation makes a difference, I can tell you that it does. Last week we were privileged to spend some time in a fishing village just north of Prechuap Khiri Khan. For a number of years, the people in these communities have witnessed rising sea levels, increased pollution in the oceans, and depleted fish and crab resources - which they depend on for their livelihoods. As a result, the local people have taken the situation into their own hands. They realize that if they are to continue living and depending on the sea for their income, they have to start looking after their environment and investing in their future.

I was particularly humbled by a project called the Crab Bank (“Tannakarn Booo” in Thai), which has been established with the assistance of the Federation of Southern Fisherfolk (a Thai NGO), and is funded by Oxfam GB.

The people in Ao Noi village are, for the most part, crab-fishing families. As little as five years ago they were able to fish from their boats only 100 metres from the shoreline, but now they are forced to go way out to sea to catch the same amount. The main reason for this is because the near-shore resources have been destroyed by large commercial fishing boats (from outside provinces) that are equipped with destructive fishing gear such as bottom trawlers, and smaller mesh sized gill nets. These boats took all the fish and crab resources from the bay and left nothing behind for the local fishermen. The community could no longer rely on coastal resources, nor afford the expensive fuel prices to go beyond their usual spots for long periods of time.

As a result, the local community members decided they would set up a reproduction system to bring their crab resources back home, by encouraging the fisherman to donate the gravid mother crabs and their eggs (outside the shell) to the Crab Bank, so that they can reproduce in a controlled environment. The new crabs are later released back to the sea, meaning that the crab population will eventually increase and that their natural habitat will be rehabilitated.

Since the Crab Bank was established two years ago the fisherman are again able to catch swimmer crabs (the size of your palm) along the coast each time they go out and are actively participating in the rehabilitation of their local environment.

In addition, this project encourages community members to invest part of their earnings to a community Fishing Cooperative - allowing them to purchase new fishing supplies, fuel, rice and other household items at wholesale prices as well as keep the Crab Bank project running efficiently. The community also established their own Savings Bank - where members get interest on their savings, don't have to pay bank fees and can learn about saving money for their future.

P’Pet, the manager of the Crab Bank, is a woman in her sixties but I was amazed by her passion and energy. It is not an easy task to convince local people in the community to change their fishing habits, but she is someone who really believes that the Crab Bank project is going to help them in the future.

I was very lucky to stay with P’Pet in her house on the beach, and before going to bed she said to me in Thai with a big smile “Even though I might be poor, my body might be old and my eyes may look tired, my heart still has energy”.

Chris and I are extremely grateful to the wonderful people at Oxfam GB - Bow, Nuch, Took, Kang, and Baljit - who have helped us to organize visits to various Oxfam projects during the course of our ride through Thailand.

If you would like to support Oxfam Australia to continue to fund more projects like these please sponsor my ride to Pai...Straight Up.

All in a day's ride!

2009-12-14T20:19:00.008+07:00

I am an adventurer now (as Chris keeps reminding me) and today was jam packed with exciting adventures!

Last night we slept in a beautiful wat, which topped all of the previous wats we have slept in (even the one with air conditioned room and internet access!). This one was on a peninsula, surrounded by two quiet bays and the monks here were extremely 'sabai sabai'. When we rolled in they smiled and said 'sleep wherever you want', so we chose to pitch our tents undercover with a view of sea.

It was already piping hot by 8am, so we stopped for second breakfast in Ban Krut, a quiet beach in Prechuap Khiri Khan Province. With food in our bellies and glucose in our legs, we were able to make the steep climb up to a BIG buddha on the hillside and visit the Phra Maha That Chedi. We were really glad we did, as it is a stunning temple with surrounding views of the beaches below.

Continuing along the beachfront meant we were riding into a headwind, so eventually we turned off onto a dirt track which took us through coconut plantations - a great spot for filming. While standing there (in the middle of nowhere) an ice cream man passed us and so we indulged in a a paddle pop - Amazing Thailand!

Lights, camera, action! We set up the shot and started to ride down a side path into the distance, where there was a dog sleeping. Chris had already turned back for his solo performance, when the dog jumped to it's feet and started telling his buddies that there was a new toy to play with. All of a sudden I found myself surrounded by a pack of eight angry, gruesome, teething mutts (at least that's how they seem when your heart is racing at a million miles per hour and you are backed up against a tree, fending for yourself with your bike as a barrier).

The dogs did not seem happy to see me, and unfortunately the small rocks that I keep in my handlebar bag only served to amuse them. Eventually they got bored of growling at a petrified white lady, and by that time Chris was coming down the path with some large coconuts. They made a pass at him, while I made my escape, and with sheer luck no man or dog got hurt. I was a bit shaken, and rode with a bigger sized rock in my hand for the rest of the afternoon.

We continued along the small roads and came across a very odd beach where all the signage was in Swedish and there were lots of older foreign men, shuttling their wives around on motorbikes with sidecars. Figured it must be the word on the street in Scandinavia that Prechuap Khiri Khan is the place to be!

Eventually we made it to the town and found a nice guesthouse to stay in. It's been so long since Chris and I have paid for accommodation that we obviously forgot how to behave! First I locked the key in the room which caused a stir, as the hotel didn't have a spare. In the end they called in someone to pick the lock - so we were able to get out of our sweaty bike clothes.

When we eventually got in the room, we were so tired that we went straight for the showers. Chris grabbed his towel and said 'Wow, check out how big the towels are in this guesthouse!' I was equally impressed and while showering in adjoining cubicles we were still talking about the lovely over sized towels supplied by the owners of this (cheap) establishment. These same owners were shocked when they realised that we had been using the blankets as towels, and were perplexed that we hadn't seen the smaller versions on our beds!

These type of adventures occur on a daily basis when you are riding to Pai...Straight Up!

The shortcut that nearly wasn't

2009-12-12T17:44:00.005+07:00

After two beautiful days riding along coconut tree lined coastline, enjoying the sea breeze, we popped back out onto Thailand's infamous "Superhighway" which really isn't that super when riding a bicycle. We rode 45 km into a headwind, along a dusty section which is currently under construction when we noticed a sign sent from heaven!

It actually said 'short-cut': We couldn't believe our eyes. The enthusiasm quickly dwindled though, when after 15km there was no short-cut in sight. Never mind - there was an icecream shop ahead - and just past another sign, telling us where the shortcut was. Ahh.

We are currently, staying in another wat (Thai Buddhist temple) and hoping to follow the beachside roads all the way to Prechuap Khiri Khan, where we will visit our first Oxfam project on Tuesday.

Lesson learned: but not much English

2009-12-09T22:08:00.006+07:00

During the course of this trip, Chris and I have scheduled some visits to schools, bike clubs and various Oxfam projects – to promote the Cyclestrongman Expedition and sustainable living. A friend in Surat Thani needed some English teachers for a three-day English camp, so Chris, Gemma and I happily volunteered, thinking it would be a good way to make a bit of money as well as get some media attention.

However, my expectations again came back to bite me. It was obvious that the camp was fairly unorganised from the outset and the students (15-17 year olds) knew very little English meaning the activities and lessons we had planned were pretty much useless. We resorted to our repertoire of ‘fun’ games such as Simon Says, Eye Spy and We’re Going on a Bear Hunt – and most of the time I felt like a circus clown rather than a professional English teacher. Thankfully we had Gemma there, as her enthusiasm and rapport with the students helped us to overcome the filthy looks that we were getting from the other teachers all weekend.

I was so relieved when it was over, especially since most of the weekend was spent driving around various tourist destinations on one of those extremely colourful and noisy Karaoke busses that Thai people love. Since returning to Surat Thani, I have had several annoying Thai pop songs ringing in my ears.

This experience has taught me a valuable lesson though. To never do something just because you are getting paid for it. I would rather have spent the time riding my bike up steep hills, sleeping on the hard floor in a wat and smelling like I’ve been sweating for three days straight without a shower.

Generous Hosts

2009-12-09T21:52:00.008+07:00

Whilst in Phuket we stayed with a friend-of-a friend-of-a-friend,
Nick and his wife Maple in their home in Surin Beach. Nick is a property developer turned environmental activist, and has recently negotiated with the government to introduce a charge for plastic bags in Phuket. Awesome!

We really appreciated Nick and Maple’s generosity. Staying with them was an unexpected luxury, especially Maple’s wonderful home cooked (healthy) meals and Nick’s assistance to get media interest in Chris’s journey.

While Chris was doing radio and newspaper interviews, I spent this few days catching up on emails, having massage and swimming in the ocean. To be honest though, I was glad to be back on our bikes after 2 days hanging out.

Throughout the journey so far, we have had some other wonderful hosts and I just wanted to make mention of them here. I will continue to update this list as the journey continues. We are extremely grateful for the hospitality shown to us by:

Din and Rizal – Langkawi island; Alex, the ladyboy who cooked us a spicy Thai meal and showed us the sights - Trang; Nick, Maple and their dog Sausage – Phuket; Jom, the fun loving restaurant owner and everyone’s mate -Phang Nga; Ram, Ton and their families (Jom’s friends) – Ban Tha Khun
Na Ang, P’Bon and P’Gae (Nui’s Family); as well as Fon and Boy – Surat Thani

P'Pet and Family - Ao Noi Village

P'Nong, Meaw and Family - Gang Kradai Village

Greenpeace Organic Rice Farm Project - Ratchaburi

Reflection in Thailand's Deep South

2009-12-01T12:45:00.003+07:00

One thing about camping in a Thai Buddhist temple is that you are woken each morning at 4:30am. But instead of being woken by monks chanting, each morning we wake to the calm singing voice of the Muslim call to prayer. Surprisingly in Thailand’s South, these two religious building are often situated within walking distance of one another, and in the areas that we visited the two religions seem to live in relative harmony.

Having lived in Thailand for over two years, I thought I had a general awareness of Thai people and the culture of the country. But over the past week riding in Southern Thailand, I have learned a great deal about the people of the south, and been surprised at the rich Muslim culture that exists in what I thought was a primarily Buddhist country.

We have eaten different foods (by now, you should know that it is all about the food!), greeted people with ‘Salaam Malakum’ instead of ‘Sawadee Kha’ and been humbled by the beauty of the landscape and kindness of the people.

I have spent the last two nights camping on Koh Yao Yay Island, as large, rugged piece of land in Phang Nga Bay between Krabi and Phuket, which is almost entirely inhabited by Muslims. The notable difference I found when visiting this island is that there were very few resorts, bungalows, beach bars, not to mention little tourists. This made for a beautiful, well preserved piece of nature which was easily explored by bicycle.

After 6 days riding, at an average of 70-90km per day, it was time for a rest. Gemma and I found the quietest beach on the island and set up camp amongst a mangrove forest, away from the roads, cars and people. It was so lovely to have some time alone with nature. In the past, I have really enjoyed going to the more popular islands to get away from the big city, and have a break, but this experience really reminded me what ‘peace and quiet’ was really like.

A new friend on the road – Gemma, joins the CSX Expedition!

2009-11-26T12:20:00.008+07:00

By day 8, Chris and I had established a vague routine for riding in Thailand. Generally we would pack up our camping gear in the dark and set off after first light, stopping for first breakfast or roti or ‘pla don gor’ (donuts) and coffee at around 7am, then for second breakfast, usually rice or noodles, at around 9am. On this particular day though, we had only made about 10 kms and were passing a Palm Oil plantation, when out pops a little Australian girl with touring bicycle!

Gemma, a 22 year old from Wagga wanted to see the world, but to do it in a sustainable and eco-friendly way, so took off on her little adventure by cargo ship from Australia in October। She has been cycling solo through Malaysia and Thailand ever since.

We were headed in the same direction, so she joined us up to Trang, onto Krabi and she and I have just spent two nights camping on Koh Yao Island, while Chris circumnavigated Phang Nga Bay solo.

Training to be a vet, Gemma has a unique way with animals (which has been very helpful-especially with dogs and monkeys) and strong passion for the environment and solving issues regarding climate change and water scarcity in Australia. We have really enjoyed riding with Gemma –and it has been a constant source of amusement for Thai people, who often think that she is mine and Chris’s daughter!

Goodbye Malaysia, Heloooor Thailand!

2009-11-23T08:14:00.000+07:00

Our rest days in Langkawi island turned out to be more indulgent than we expected. One thing this expedition has taught me, is to leave those expectations at the door with your cycling shoes.

Din, our couchsurfing host, and his tribe of bachelor friends were about to embark on a weekend of birthday parties, and we were invited! During the course of the weekend 'the hungry bikers' were treated to a buffet dinner, followed by an amazing BBQ the following evening. Din's neighbour Rizal cooked up an amazing array of meats, scallops and lobster - which were so delicious that Chris announced the title 'Best BBQ outside of Australia'.

We were excited to get to Thailand - but not before seeing some more of the island. Later on the ferry over to Satun (Thailand) we met a Thai mountain bike group, who were very taken by our bikes. I was excited to have the opportunity to speak Thai again, so asked if they knew somewhere cheap we could stay in Satun. They offered to show us to the main Wat (Buddhist temple) an d we all set off in convoy, riding together in the pouring rain.

After setting up our tents under a wooded pagoda, we noticed that there were several people congregated nearby, celebrating something in true Thai style – by eating together! We wandered over for a look, and before we knew it, everyone was smiling, asking us to sit down and enjoy all sorts of Thai curries, kanom (snacks) and deserts. It was until after a few minutes that I realised that we weren’t crashing someone’s party –but someone’s funeral!

With full stomachs and a dry place to sleep, we couldn’t have been happier. If this was the kind of hospitality shown to us at a funeral, then we were definitely looking forward to seeing what the rest of Thailand had to offer.

Happy Birthday CSX

2009-11-20T14:14:00.003+07:00

We are currently on Langkawi Island and it is Day 5 of riding with the Cyclestrongman, Chris Roach. Yesterday was Chris’s birthday, although neither of us realised what day it was until the afternoon- oops. Chris got a plethora of gifts (boy, was I glad to lose some of that extra weight) when we started our journey to Pai...Straight Up 3 days ago.

When we rolled into Langkawi we hadn't had a proper shower for 3 days. So as soon as we arrived we headed for the ocean and swam fully clothed.

Chris kept pointing out that ‘today is my special day’ to people, bringing him special privileges like a free milo smoothie and a scrummy piece of chocolate cake from the night market, which made it even more special. “Life’s Good” he said before passing out in his hotel room that night.

My cycling capabilities have shocked me in the past few days. Having already been on the road for 8 months, I thought Chris would be setting a keen pace, but since he is going to be on the road for 8 years and has recently undertaken a retreat in Vipassana meditation, his riding style is calm and ‘sabai sabai’.

I thought I would be left gaping for air after only one one leg (like in the spin classes I used to do at the gym) but after 4 days of solid riding (between 45 and 80km per day) I am left feeling energised and ready to get up and do the same tomorrow.

The journey has already been full of surprises. On night one we slept in an unfinished shell of a house, which was at the side of a major freeway. The following night it was in a motor mechanic garage (he gave us permission of course). I’ve already started to appreciate the simple things. One day it rained all day, and even though this adventure is a far cry from a holiday – I am enjoying myself, so far, so good!

Our plan is to loop the island, stay a couple of nights in our tents on a beach somewhere before heading into Thailand (Satun) on Monday 23rd.

Training in Penang

2009-11-17T13:22:00.000+07:00

I rolled into Penang, and siddled up to The Old Penang Inn guesthouse which had been recommended by Caroline! As I wheeled my bike into the front doorway, a guy approached and was fascinated by my two wheels. Joen, a Belgian, was travelling overland from Australia back home and was keen to do some riding. This worked well for me as I had two days to kill before Chris arrived, and wanted to explore the island by bicycle. So off we went, tents and sleeping mats strapped to our racks, or in Joen’s case in his lovely basket.

The first couple of hours were fairly subdued – flat stretches of riding, with intermittent temple stops and food breaks. After a while we came to some hills – which were not as hilly as they were mountainous. We went up and up for about 12km, each time the terrain getting steeper. After a while I had to get off and push and was doing so when the rain started to pour.

It was coming from all directions down the mountain at me, which was making it difficult to push, not to mention pedal. I can’t tell you enough how ridiculous I felt at this moment – a complete beginner cyclist, attempting to climb mountains in the pouring rain on day one. Eventually we reached the top, and coming down made it all seem worthwhile! We found a quiet and dry place to camp at a lovely Chinese Buddhist Temple. The caretakers let us pitch our tents in the shrine, fed us soft boiled eggs and crackers, and we slept like babies after the excitement of day one.

The following day included a much more gradual climb, up to a Tropical Fruit Farm, where you could eat abundant amounts of dragonfruit, yellow watermelon, rambutan, pink guava and many other delights for less than $2 AUD. Overall, I was happy to have had these two days of training and was ready to begin my next adventure to Pai...Straight Up.

Ready, set, go!

2009-11-13T12:59:00.003+07:00

The ride to the Hua Lumpong Train station was the scariest and hairiest ride I have ever done. Prior to this ride, I have ridden in Bangkok twice. Both times I was wearing my super-fluro construction worker/motorcycle taxi vest, and ventured out at a time of the week which was guaranteed to be traffic-free (Sunday afternoons).
This time, I was unprepared. I left late, in the heat of the day, at a peak traffic time and without realising that I should have practiced riding with weight on my bike. For anyone who hasn’t tried riding with 40kgs strapped to the back, it can be a bit wobbly!
I piked halfway and paid way too much for the nearest tuk tuk driver to save me. We rolled up just in time for the train, and I settled in for my 22hr train journey to Penang.

Counting down the hours now...

2009-11-12T18:18:00.004+07:00

Its been a busy week - finalising things (like work), fundraising, telling the media our story, packing and unpacking, but tomorrow I am heading to Penang, to meet Chris and start riding towards the starting line - Satun (in the south of Thailand). Can't wait!!

I said goodbye to my Thai teachers this afternoon. "Chok dee na kha (Good Luck)" they said, but were looking at me with concern. They are not the only ones - people keep taking one look at me and asking - "Are you sure your ready?"

Hmmm...

Physically speaking = No

I haven't been training since I have been back in Bangkok. The two times I have attempted it, I was lying on the couch afterwards wondering why I even left the house. I've had three pleasant rides outside of the city, but these were pretty leisurely, on bikes with cushy seats and with the benefit of knowing that I had to return the bike after a couple of hours.

Mentally speaking = I think so, but one will never know how they feel riding for 5-8 hours per day in heat and rain, until they have tried it.

Have you packed? Yes

Everything except the portable iron, Chris wouldn't allow it!

Have you finished working? For now, Yes
The beauty of being a freelancer - means you can take off on these adventures.

Have you spoken to your parents? Yes

They're cool.

Well, off you go then!

a t-shirt, a smile and a good story

2009-11-07T09:26:00.008+07:00

Wow - it's amazing what little effort it can take to inspire others.

Whilst schmoozing last night's tweet-up (#bkktweetup) I spoke to about 6-7 people about the ride that Chris and I are doing, and the work of Oxfam Australia. These generous people each committed to give me 1 THB per kilometer that I ride.

I am extremely grateful that all of these people were willing to support the cause and have faith that I am able to successfully ride all the way to Pai. Big thanks to: Rose, Tri, Pam, Ryan, Richard, Dwight and Dylan who collectively helped me to raise 11,100 THB for Oxfam Australia!

You can also donate by pledging by distance you think I can travel (please note these are approximations only).

To Pai Straight Up One THB per Km

Satun - Krabi = 250 Kms (250 THB / $8 AUD)

Satun - Phuket = 400 Kms (400 THB / $13 AUD)

Satun - Phetchaburi = 800 Kms (800 THB / $26 AUD)

Satun - Suphan Buri = 1000 Kms (1000 THB / $33 AUD)

Satun - Ayutthaya = 1200 Kms (1200 THB / $40 AUD)

Satun - Sukhothai = 1600 Kms (1600 THB / $52 AUD)

Satun - Chiang Mai = 2200 Kms (2200 THB / $72 AUD)

Satun - Pai = 2500 Kms (2500 THB / $82 AUD)

Please support Oxfam Australia by donating at: http://www.everydayhero.com.au/TheCycleStrongmanExpedition

For all my friends living in Bangkok - tomorrow, Sunday 8th November, you are invited to a picnic in our lovely garden in Phaya Thai. This fundraising event will give you the opportunity to find out more about the Cyclestrongman Expedition, Oxfam projects in Thailand, and say goodbye to me before I head south to start my journey next week.

Hope to see you there!

Why am I doing this?

2009-11-02T08:04:00.006+07:00

I can't say I have ever been a cyclist. My mother gave me a bike when I was about 8 years old, and it continued to gather dust (and eventually rust) in the garage for the next 12 years.

BUT recently I have been inspired. Inspired by several things really.

1. One of my buddies, Chris Roach, decided he was going to ride a bike around the world for 8 years. Mainly because he has a sense of wanderlust, wants to live a simple existence, treat the earth kindly, and see the world. But also because he believes change is possible. He is doing this bike ride to raise money for Oxfam Australia - an organisation who works towards creating a world where people look after themselves, as well as nature.

Please donate to his cause by going to: http://www.everydayhero.com.au/TheCycleStrongmanExpedition

2. I have met several cyclists in the past few months - and one thing I noticed was that they all sing in the shower. Mick, Dustin, Alan, Tomas, Charlie, Toby, Chris - it's not that I was standing outside the door listening while you showered - just through meeting you, I can tell that you do. Each of you have that beautiful spirit, and energy that comes from enjoying the little things in life. It takes very little to satisfy you - food, water, shelter and a bike, are the things that make you happy.

3. Over the past two years, I have lived in Thailand and been making a conscious effort to learn Thai language. When I speak this language with others I feel like a child again. I am flirty, fun and outgoing - even more so than when I speak English. I am inspired by my own ability to be able to communicate with people from another country, in their own tongue, and want to get out of the big city once and for all and get to know what daily life is like for Thai people.

So on November 14th I will travel to Southern Thailand to meet the Cyclestrongman (aka Chris Roach) and join him on a glorious bicycle ride - straight up - to Pai, a little heaven in the north of Thailand.

I am estimating that this journey will take approximately 2 months, and we will cycle approximately 2,500 kms.

The reason I will culminate in Pai is significant. Apart from it being a well-touristed destination in Thailand, it is also a place where I spent some time in 2007. When I first arrived in Thailand I received a book which was written about a friend of mine, Tom Hurndall, who was killed 6 years ago in the Israeli Palestinian civil crisis. I took some time off, to read his biography and spent some time on my own in the beauty of the Pai valley. I hope to finish this wonderful journey I am about to embark on in the same place.

So that's why I am doing this.